Where were we again? What day is it? Whatever day it is I'm back, so lets get this show back on the road.
By now you should hopefully have your dress joined together and you are ready to add your sleeves. When I tried on my dress at this point I really liked how it looked without sleeves so I have come up with an alternative finish for that one.
Start by folding your sleeves right side together and sewing the seam. Finish using your chosen method.
Finger press in the fold line at the top of the sleeve. I hope that makes sense? Opposite to the seam...
With the dress turned inside out poke a sleeve, right side facing out, through the sleeve hole. If you are using buttons then start on the side without the buttons because it is easier to match the top.
Match the line you have finger pressed with the shoulder seam in the bodice and pin. Make sure that the sleeve is straight.
Now match the side seam of the dress with the seam in the sleeve and pin.
Pin around the under arm of sleeve from the seams to the notches.
Like the yoke front you are supposed to sew a basting stitch and gather between the notches. As for the yoke I chose to put in my own gathers rather than rely on the basting thread. If you want to baste and gather go for it, the gathering isn't a 'extreme' as for the yoke so it is less likely to end up looking a bit mangled like the yoke can.
Finish pinning the sleeves in.
As for when you joined the yoke and the dress you are joining concave and convex curve so you will need to use plenty of pins and be patient when you are both pinning and sewing.
Sew the sleeve into the sleeve into the dress...a few tips:
- Go slow.
- Sew with the 'hole' part of the sleeve facing up rather than trying to fit the base of your sewing machine inside the sleeve. You get much better control and visibility this way.
- Make sure that you keep the both layers of fabric flat. I had to unpick one of the sleeves on the yellow dress when I caught and extra layer into the seam for a few inches, doh!
Finish sleeve seam using either an overlocker/serger or with a line of zigzag stitching and pinking shears if you have them.
Repeat for the other sleeve. If you are using buttons on the yoke you will need to finger press the eqivalent position of the shoulder seam because of the overlap.
Confession time. I've made this 3 times but didn't add cuffs once. It just seemed to hard the fact you potentially end up with a little raw edge turned me off.
You should try on the dress at this point (you can pull out those shoulder basting stitches now) to decide where you want the finished sleeves to sit on your arm. Cut away any excess length.
To finish my sleeves I sewed a line of stitches 1/4" from the edge then used this as a guide for ironing the hem. I then turned the hem up another 1/2" and pinned in place.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
Line the shoulder seams up and lay the sleeves on top of one another to ensure that they are the same length, adjust if neccesary.
Finish the hems by stitching.
For my own dress I bound the sleeves to keep them short.
Right now I have to head to the shops with the kids and we have a play date this afternoon so I'll write up the tutorial for binding the sleeves tonight.
Nice to be pushing publish again after not even getting a chance to log into my account for the last few days!